When it comes to treating hyperpigmentation, two skincare heavyweights often take the crown for their ability to brighten the skin: Niacinamide and Vitamin C. According to the National Cancer Institute, hyperpigmentation is a skin condition in which patches of skin are darker than the surrounding skin.
It occurs when special cells in the skin produce too much of the pigment melanin. It may be caused by skin injury or inflammation, sun damage, abnormal skin growth, hormone changes, pregnancy, or other medical conditions.
Both ingredients are celebrated for their skin-brightening abilities, but which reigns supreme? Let’s break it down.
What is Niacinamide?
Niacinamide, a form of vitamin B3, is like that reliable friend who always shows up on time and never overpromises. It works methodically by targeting dark spots, uneven skin tone, and inflammation without causing irritation.
How Does Niacinamide Work?
At its core, niacinamide regulates enzymatic activity and cell homeostasis, helping the skin repair itself from within. One of its greatest strengths is its ability to inhibit melanosome transfer, meaning it stops excess pigment from moving to the skin’s surface. This is what makes it a top ingredient for preventing and fading hyperpigmentation.
But niacinamide doesn’t stop there. It’s also an antioxidant that neutralises free radicals and reduces oxidative stress caused by UV exposure and pollution. Unlike some harsh brightening agents, it plays well with most other skincare ingredients.
READ ALSO: The 7 Best Niacinamide Toners for Skin Brightening and Oil Control
Niacinamide’s Skin Benefits:
1. Fades hyperpigmentation by slowing pigment transfer
2. Strengthens the skin barrier by keeping it resilient.
3. Reduces redness and inflammation.
4. Regulates oil production.
5. Boosts ceramide production and improves hydration levels.
One study found that a 5% niacinamide formulation significantly reduced hyperpigmentation after just two weeks. And because it’s non-irritating, even those with reactive skin can use it daily without worry.
Here Are Some Great Niacinamide Products To Try:
1. 25PSKYN Liqueur
Best for: Dull skin, hyperpigmentation, and premature ageing
This multi-functional serum uses 5% niacinamide with other powerful antioxidants like beta-carotene, beta-arbutin, and superoxide dismutase to combat hyperpigmentation, fine lines, and environmental damage respectively.
It’s also made with hemp-derived cannabidiol and honey to soothe irritation and support skin repair. In addition, the presence of N-Acetyl Glucosamine works synergistically with niacinamide for a brighter complexion. Price: ₦39,999. Where To Buy: Shop Hermosamart.
2. Good Molecules Niacinamide Brightening Toner
Best for: Hydration, brightening, and reducing redness
This toner is a gentle and effective way to incorporate niacinamide into your routine. It contains 3% niacinamide, arbutin, and licorice root extract to improve skin tone without irritation. It has a non-sticky, watery formula that absorbs well into the skin. And it contains hyaluronic acid for added hydration. Price: $13.99. Where To Buy: Shop Amazon.
3. Numbuzin No. 5 Niacin Concentrated Pads
Best for: Convenience, hydration, and mild exfoliation
Toner pads have become a trend in K-beauty, and these are made with niacinamide, tranexamic acid, and ascorbic acid for brightening and evening out skin tone. Use them as an easy toner step or place them on targeted areas as a DIY sheet mask. It helps to refine skin texture and improve dullness. Price: $18.20. Where To Buy: Shop Amazon.
What is Vitamin C?
If niacinamide is the reliable workhorse, vitamin C is the showstopper. It’s the ingredient that skincare lovers turn to for instant luminosity. But does it outshine niacinamide when it comes to hyperpigmentation?
How Does Vitamin C Work?
Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) is a potent antioxidant that fights oxidative stress while inhibiting tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for melanin production. Unlike niacinamide, which slows pigment transfer, vitamin C directly reduces melanin synthesis and tackles dark spots at the root.
However, vitamin C has a bit of a diva personality. It’s unstable meaning it oxidises quickly when exposed to air and light and loses effectiveness. It also requires an optimal pH (around 3.5) to penetrate the skin, which can irritate some, especially those with sensitive or compromised skin barriers.
READ ALSO: Glow on a Budget: The Best Vitamin C Serums Under ₦20,000
Vitamin C’s Skin Benefits:
1. Inhibits melanin production by fading dark spots over time.
2. Boosts collagen synthesis by making skin firmer and bouncier.
3. Neutralises free radicals and prevents premature aging.
4. Improves overall skin radiance.
5. Increases sun protection when used alongside SPF.
A clinical study showed that a 20% vitamin C lotion significantly improved skin tone, elasticity, and radiance in just four weeks. However, those with sensitive skin may experience tingling, redness, or dryness, especially at higher concentrations.
Here Are Some Great Vitamin C Products To Try:
1. Medicube Deep Vitamin C Capsule Cream
Best for: Antioxidant protection and deep hydration
Vitamin C creams are great for those who prefer a moisturising option over serums. This Medicube formula contains sodium ascorbyl phosphate, a stable and non-irritating form of vitamin C, along with niacinamide and folic acid for a well-rounded brightening effect.
It also hydrates and nourishes the skin with sunflower and soybean oil, as well as strengthens the skin barrier with panthenol and adenosine. Price: $19.90. Where To Buy: Shop Amazon.
2. Goodal Green Tangerine Vita C Dark Spot Care Serum
Best for: Treating dark spots and post-acne marks
A cult-favorite in the K-beauty world, this serum is made with green tangerine extract, which is naturally rich in vitamin C. It also contains niacinamide and arbutin to boost the brightening effect. Despite its potency, the formula is gentle enough for sensitive skin.
It’s practically sold out everywhere so grab it while you still can! Price: ₦33,000. Where To Buy: Shop Rhema Beauty Shop.
3. Medix 5.5 Vitamin C + Turmeric Lotion
Best for: Face and body brightening
If you’re looking for a vitamin C product that works beyond just your face, this Medix 5.5 lotion is an excellent choice. It combines tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (a stable vitamin C derivative) with turmeric, ferulic acid, and ginger root extract to brighten and protect against free radical damage.
It’s also made with turmeric and vitamin E for extra antioxidant power and it helps to reduce sun damage and develop an even skin tone. Price: $17.99. Where To Buy: Shop Amazon.
Which One Works Better for Hyperpigmentation?
So, the big question: Which ingredient should you choose?
If you want a gentle, slow-and-steady approach, niacinamide is possibly your best bet. It’s less likely to irritate, it plays well with other ingredients, and it strengthens the skin barrier while evening out skin tone.
On the other hand, if you want faster, more dramatic results, vitamin C is the winner. It directly inhibits melanin production, and it’s more effective at fading dark spots in the short term. However, it requires proper formulation and storage to remain stable and potent.
RELATED: Want Clearer, Glowing Skin? Here Are 7 Vitamin C Serums to Try
Can You Use Them Together?
Absolutely! Contrary to outdated myths, niacinamide and vitamin C can be used in the same routine. Niacinamide calms and strengthens the skin, while vitamin C brightens and protects—a match made in skincare heaven.
To get the best of both worlds:
1. Use vitamin C in the morning for antioxidant protection and brightening.
2. Apply niacinamide in the evening to repair and strengthen the skin overnight.
3. If you would rather layer, apply vitamin C first, wait a few minutes, then follow with niacinamide. Just make sure to top it off with an SPF 30 - 50 sunscreen!
Both ingredients have strengths, but the best choice depends on your skin type and tolerance. If you have sensitive skin, start with niacinamide. If your skin can handle stronger actives and you want quicker results, vitamin C is worth the investment. And for those who can’t choose? Use both for the ultimate hyperpigmentation-fighting duo.