Here’s How to Use Kojic Acid Safely, According to a Skin Health Expert

In a country where hyperpigmentation treatments should be as common as sunscreen (but often aren’t), kojic acid continues to dominate the skincare conversation in Nigeria. But how much do we really know about it beyond the brightening promises and bestselling soaps?

To get the real lowdown, I spoke with Desire Uba, a pharmacist, cosmetic scientist, and skin educator who has made it her life’s work to help Nigerians feel more confident in their skin through the right knowledge, products, and professional care.

Trained at the University of Lagos with double master’s degrees in the European Master in Translational Cosmetic and Dermatological Sciences (EMOTION), Uba also holds a certificate in Cosmetic Sciences from the Beauty Therapy Institute. On Instagram and TikTok (@desireuba), she’s a familiar face breaking down complex skin science in a way that’s fresh, fun and wildly informative.

“I struggled with pityriasis rosea as a teenager,” she shares. “We tried everything, including agbo, until we finally landed at the dermatology clinic in LUTH. That experience shaped my passion for skincare because I know what it’s like to feel helpless in your own skin.”

Today, she educates others and actively curates safe skincare through her retail brand, Dee Skin Store, where she is adamant about authenticity. “I noticed the gap in authenticity for skincare products in Nigeria and that led me to start Dee Skin Store so people can actually access legit products without worrying.”

And now, she’s setting the record straight on kojic acid, that fungal-derived ingredient known for fading dark spots and brightening the skin. But as with all actives, the magic is in the method.

There’s no shortage of buzz around kojic acid. From serums to soaps, this fungal-derived brightening agent has made its way into the hearts— and skincare shelves —of many Nigerians hoping to fade hyperpigmentation, clear dark spots, and achieve a more even complexion. 

Whether you’re a beginner or a beauty junkie, this is one skincare read you’ll want to bookmark.

Kojic Acid: What Exactly Is It?

Kojic acid, Desire explains, has been brightening skin for over a century. “Kojic acid, sourced from fungi, has a long history of 117 years in skin lightening/brightening and fading dark spots,” she says. It works by “reducing melanin production, which is what gives skin its colour, by attaching to a key enzyme (tyrosinase) and reducing its function.”

In simpler terms, this means that it slows down the process that causes dark spots, uneven tone, and hyperpigmentation. Even better, Desire notes, “it may also work by boosting the production of collagen and as an antioxidant.” So not only does your skin look brighter, but it could also look bouncier over time.

Aside from its brightening power, kojic acid also has antimicrobial benefits. Yes, it can even help preserve your skincare product. What’s more? It’s one of the few brightening ingredients considered safe for use during pregnancy. “Hormonal changes during pregnancy often lead to hyperpigmentation. Kojic acid is great for this period because it’s effective and generally well-tolerated,” she adds.

Is Kojic Acid Too Powerful?

Desire is the first to admit that, like all actives, kojic acid comes with a need for caution.

“One product is enough. You don’t need to layer three kojic acid products on your face,” she advises. “Start slow, maybe with a wash-off cleanser or a mild serum, and build up. Signs of overuse include redness, itchiness, rashes, and a compromised skin barrier. If your skin starts acting up, pull back.”

The Legal Limits and Why They Matter

Kojic acid is generally considered safe when used correctly. “In Nigeria, Europe (EU/UK), China, South America, India, it’s allowed at a maximum of 1% for safety purposes,” Desire explains. “In the USA, South Korea, and the Philippines, 2% is the maximum allowed.” Regulatory bodies like NAFDAC have recently cracked down on products exceeding these limits, like the infamous Caro White, which was recently found to contain more than 1% Kojic acid.

From 2025, new EU regulations (which NAFDAC is also adopting) will restrict the use of kojic acid to facial and hand applications only, excluding body use. “The science is clear. Follow the guidelines.”

Why Skin Experts Love It

Unlike some actives that can clash with others or make pregnancy a minefield for skincare routines, Kojic acid is surprisingly flexible. “One thing I adore about Kojic acid is that it is safe to use during pregnancy, which is great because hormonal changes can lead to hyperpigmentation disorders during this sensitive period,” Desire says.

She’s also quick to highlight how Kojic acid plays well with others: “Kojic acid is really a chill babe. She doesn’t seem to react negatively or disrupt other active ingredients so you can use it with basically any other ingredient, which is convenient — and works even better when used with other actives.”

How to Use Kojic Acid Properly (and Avoid Trouble)

• Balance is key: Like with all skincare actives, you have to balance your skincare routine when you’re using Kojic acid. Desire recommends starting gently: “For a beginner, you can start with a wash-off form a few times weekly (could be a bar, mask, or wash) or a leave-on product like a serum or moisturiser.”
  

• Patch test first: “This should be non-negotiable, especially if you have sensitive skin or a history of contact dermatitis.”
  

• Start low and slow: Begin with 1% and work up if needed. Use once daily, max. Desire recommends that, as time progresses, you can increase usage to 1-2 times daily, depending on the complexity of your routine and the potency of the product containing kojic acid. She also recommends applying your products from thinnest to thickest after cleansing, and making sure to apply sunscreen generously during the daytime. And she emphasises to “always remember to watch how your skin reacts to an ingredient or product.”
  

• Pair with gentle ingredients: Desire loves combining kojic acid with niacinamide, lactic acid, or mandelic acid for a synergistic effect.
  

• Hydrate and protect: She advises keeping your skin hydrated from the inside out by using toners or essences. You can read through our top toners and essence picks in our toners vs. essence article.  Desire also emphasises to always follow up with sunscreen. She encourages “applying sunscreen generously and reapplying every 2-3 hours during the day (10am-4pm especially)."
  

• Skip the multiples: “You don’t need three products containing kojic acid to reap its benefits. One is just fine.”

Sensitive-skinned readers, take note: Kojic acid is generally well-tolerated, but irritation is possible if overused. Signs of overdoing it include “redness, itchiness, skin tightness, worsening of breakouts, sudden rashes, dullness, and it could also be quite drying,” Desire warns.

5 Well-Formulated Kojic Acid Products That Are Safe and Effective

1. Topicals Faded Brightening and Clearing Serum

Topicals has become that brand for anyone with stubborn dark marks and uneven texture, and the Faded Serum is proof of why. It’s clinically proven to even skin tone, fade dark spots, and soften texture, all without irritating sensitive skin.

It’s loaded with brightening ingredients, including kojic acid, azelaic acid, niacinamide, and tranexamic acid. But what sets it apart is its moisture-friendliness, thanks to the inclusion of shea butter, jojoba oil, and glycerin.

The new formula is also completely odourless, which is a win if you hated the strong smell of the original.

Users rave about seeing results in as little as a week, especially in smoother skin texture. It’s gentle enough for daily use and feels almost like a silky lotion. Price: $18. Where To Buy: Shop Amazon.

2. Topicals Faded Bar

If you prefer a fuss-free approach, Topicals Faded Cleansing Bar is your shortcut to brighter, more even-toned skin, especially in challenging areas like underarms, inner thighs, and the chest.

Formulated with a potent blend of kojic acid, azelaic acid, lactic acid and vitamin C, this fragrance-free bar cleanses and treats at the same time. Additionally, it’s enriched with shea butter and glycerin, ensuring your skin remains hydrated and soft.

Heads up: The bar is smaller than you might expect, and if you’re using it all over your body, it might not last ages. Still, most users agree it’s totally worth it for the way it leaves skin feeling soft, clean and gradually more even-toned. Price: $28. Where To Buy: Shop Amazon.

3. Urban Skin Rx Even Tone Super Glow Serum

If you’re looking for a brightening serum that does a bit of everything and does it well, Urban Skin Rx’s Even Tone Super Glow Serum is the one to watch. It’s bursting with potent Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) to tackle dullness, fine lines, and pigmentation, plus Kojic acid to gently exfoliate and fade dark spots.

It’s a beautiful all-rounder that feels featherlight on the skin and absorbs quickly. It’s perfect for layering under your daily moisturiser and SPF and it also contains ferulic acid for extra antioxidant protection and niacinamide to boost your glow even further.

Fun fact: If you develop dark spots after every blemish (post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation), a Vitamin C and kojic acid combo like this is an absolute essential in your routine. Price: ₦31,500. Where To Buy: Shop Teeka4. 

4. Touch Bright and Clear Cream

This cream is highly concentrated and loaded with serious pigment-correcting actives. It combines Kojic acid, tranexamic acid, azelaic acid and niacinamide. These are basically the dream team for fading stubborn marks. They all work together to brighten and strengthen the skin barrier, cleanse pores and reduce inflammation, clear pigmentation, melasma and acne. 

It also includes aloe vera juice and glycerin to balance things out, meaning it won’t leave your skin feeling dry or stripped. If you’re serious about clearing uneven skin tone fast (but still want something you can use daily), this is a strong contender. Price: ₦27,000. Where To Buy: Shop Dee Skin Store.

5. Conscious Chemist Pigment Corrector Cream

This Conscious Chemist cream is seriously impressive if you’re looking for a targeted nighttime solution. Designed specifically to tackle hyperpigmentation, acne scars, and uneven skin tone, it’s packed with seven active ingredients including Kojic acid, tranexamic acid, azelaic acid and niacinamide.

What you’ll love about this formula is its lightweight feel. It’s not one of those heavy, greasy creams that just sit on top of your skin. A tiny pea-sized amount is all you need. It’s fragrance-free, non-sticky, and so gentle you can easily layer it with other actives in your routine.

Many users notice a smoother skin texture within just a few uses, while the pigmentation fades more gradually with consistent nightly application over the course of a month or two. Price: ₦16,500. Where To Buy: Shop Dee Skin Store.

Customer review: “Perfect for dark spots! Extremely lightweight and fragrance-free. I stocked up for six months after seeing the difference it made!

Always remember to wear SPF religiously when using powerful brightening ingredients, to protect your results and prevent new pigmentation from forming. Read through our picks for the best sunscreens for dark skin that don’t leave a white cast.

Kojic Acid Alternatives for Sensitive Skin

Not everyone’s skin agrees with kojic acid and that’s okay. Desire recommends looking into:

• Alpha Arbutin

• Azelaic Acid

• Thiamidol

• Niacinamide

• Cysteamine

• Vitamin C

Her top gentle-product picks include:

1. Naturium Vitamin C Complex Serum

If your goal is brighter, healthier-looking skin, Vitamin C is your best friend and Naturium’s serum is a shining example of why. Formulated with a highly stable blend of L-Ascorbic Acid and Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, this serum not only defends against environmental stressors but also instantly hydrates and visibly smooths fine lines and wrinkles within just four weeks.

Thanks to a clever combination of antioxidant-rich fruit extracts, including pineapple, papaya, and mango, this serum will give you a natural radiance boost while being gentle enough for daily use. Additionally, the inclusion of gold in the formula (yes, actual gold!) lends a subtle luxury to your skincare routine. Layer it under sunscreen during the day for maximum glow and protection. Price: ₦89,600. Where To Buy: Shop My Skin Hub

2. Revox Azelaic Acid Serum

Azelaic Acid has become a cult-favourite skincare ingredient for years because it’s one of the gentlest and most effective ways to tackle acne, redness, and textural irregularities without irritation. Revox’s version offers a concentrated 10% Azelaic Acid, helping to exfoliate the skin, clear clogged pores, and smooth uneven tone.

It’s especially great for those battling post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (those stubborn marks left behind by pimples) or dealing with rosacea-prone skin. Start slowly when using this serum by applying it twice a week if your skin is sensitive. Price: ₦11,200. Where To Buy: Shop 24Eleven

3. Q+A Azelaic Acid Balancing Serum

Q+A’s Azelaic Acid Balancing Serum pairs hardworking Azelaic Acid with Zinc PCA to help minimise pores and regulate oil production. Additionally, the inclusion of soothing aloe vera and antioxidant-rich seed extracts makes it beneficial for stressed-out, congested skin. It’s the perfect serum to use if you’re dealing with hormonal breakouts, stubborn bumps, or a dull, lifeless complexion. Price: $13. Where To Buy: Shop Amazon.

3. Tiam Vita B3 Source

Niacinamide is one of those skincare ingredients that seems to do it all and this serum by Tiam pairs a powerful 10% Niacinamide concentration with 2% Arbutin to help fade dark spots, brighten the skin, and strengthen your skin barrier.

If you’ve been struggling with uneven tone, sun spots, or redness, Vita B3 Source could easily become your daily essential. Additionally, it is lightweight and layers beautifully with other serums, making it ideal for a more comprehensive skincare routine. It helps clear dark spots, sun damage, and relieves redness-prone skin. Although you must be consistent with it, as the magic occurs with regular use over several weeks. Price: 16,000. Where To Buy: Shop Dee Skin Store.

4. The Ordinary Lactic Acid 5% + HA

If traditional acids like glycolic feel a bit too aggressive for you, The Ordinary’s Lactic Acid 5% is a far gentler option that will still give you a gorgeous glow. Lactic Acid works by gently exfoliating the skin’s surface, removing dead cells, and promoting fresher, more radiant-looking skin

With Tasmanian Pepperberry Extract added to help calm potential irritation, this formula is ideal for anyone with sensitive skin who still craves a glass-skin glow. Plus, at 5%, it’s a brilliant beginner-friendly acid if you’re starting with exfoliants. Its texture is light and slightly tacky before it gets fully absorbed. Use it at night, and don’t forget your SPF during the day! Price: $8.10. Where To Buy: Shop Amazon.

5. Banana Boat Light as Air SPF 50

No brightening or spot-fading routine is complete without daily sun protection. Banana Boat’s Light As Air SPF 50 provides high-level UVA/UVB defence without the heavy feeling many sunscreens leave behind. It’s ultra-breathable, absorbs in seconds, and wears well under makeup.

After discussing the best kojic acid products and alternatives, protecting your skin from sun damage is absolutely important if you’re trying to treat hyperpigmentation; otherwise, you risk undoing all your hard work. Reapply every two hours if you’re spending time outdoors. Price: ₦24,500. Where To Buy: Shop Dee Skin Store.

READ ALSO: 7 Retinol Body Lotions for Smoother, Firmer Skin

Spotting the Red Flags in Skin-Lightening Products

Desire is passionate about protecting Nigerian consumers from dangerous skincare practices, particularly with the boom in skin-lightening products. “One of the biggest issues with misuse is the potential for endocrine disruption, specifically in the thyroid,” she cautions, adding that overuse can also cause skin sensitivity and even worsen pigmentation issues.

With counterfeit and harmful products rampant in Nigerian markets, she provides some solid advice for shopping safely:

• Avoid unlabeled products and those with untranslated descriptions, as they may conceal harmful ingredients. When in doubt, use Google Translate.
  

• Watch out for metallic smells and cream or grey discolouration. She states that “Some products high in mercury can have a grey or cream appearance initially or the colour changes to this over time, but this is not a definitive indicator. There could also be a ‘metallic’ smell, so watch out for that.”
  

• Steer clear of ‘miracle’ claims like “7-day whitening.”

• Read ingredient lists. If the product has no list, do not buy it.

• Avoid mercury-laced ingredients like “calomel” or “mercurous.”

• Buy from trusted stores only.

For those considering Kojic acid, Desire’s advice is simple but vital: “Start slow. Patch test. Protect your skin with sunscreen. Buy from trusted sources. Seek professional advice when needed.”

As kojic acid continues to trend, the key takeaway is not just to follow the hype, but to follow the science.