Derma Rollers Are Everywhere Online, But Do You Need One in Your Routine?

If you’ve been on TikTok or Instagram lately, chances are you’ve seen someone gliding a derma roller across their cheeks or even their hairline, promising brighter skin or thicker edges. Like jade rollers, gua sha, and LED masks, it’s one of those tools that looks deceptively simple: a handle with a roller covered in microneedles.

Derma rollers have become one of the popular beauty tools on social media, with promises of glowing skin and even hair regrowth. But unlike its gentler cousins, this one comes with actual needles. And that brings the question: is it worth the hype, or just another gadget gathering dust in your vanity drawer? 

Some swear by it for fading scars and boosting hair density, while others dismiss it as overhyped. This review breaks down how derma rollers work, what results to expect, and whether they’re worth adding to your routine.

What is a Derma Roller?

A derma roller is a handheld device fitted with tiny needles that usually range between 0.2 mm and 1.5 mm in length. Rolling it across your skin or scalp creates tiny punctures, also known as micro-injuries. These trigger your body’s natural healing response, increasing blood flow, stimulating collagen, and improving cellular turnover.

The tool is versatile and can be used on the face, scalp, and even the beard area to improve texture or stimulate hair growth.

For skincare, derma rollers do improve texture and fade pigmentation, but don’t expect professional-level results. They’re commonly used to reduce the appearance of fine lines, acne scars, and hyperpigmentation. 

While they won’t deliver the dramatic results of professional microneedling, they can help your serums and creams absorb more effectively, making them a solid budget-friendly option.

How to use it on skin:

• Always start by cleansing your skin and sanitising the roller in alcohol. Many experts recommend rolling at night to avoid sun exposure immediately after.
  

• Apply a serum first, then roll vertically, horizontally, and diagonally across the face for no longer than two minutes. Avoid the eye area and be gentle around sensitive spots like the nose and upper lip.
  

• Apply a hydrating or anti-ageing serum afterwards, but avoid harsh ingredients like retinol or vitamin C. Your skin will be extra sensitive, so sunscreen is non-negotiable the next day. Skip makeup, hot showers, or workouts for 24 hours.
  

• Always disinfect your roller after use and replace it every three months to avoid dull needles and bacteria buildup.

Results on the skin are gradual. With consistent use, you may notice brighter, smoother skin over a few months.

Beyond skincare, derma rollers are now popular among people dealing with thinning hair or patchy beards. By creating tiny punctures in the scalp, the roller boosts blood flow and stimulates dormant follicles. It also helps hair growth treatments like minoxidil absorb more effectively.

Hair loss is incredibly common; around 85% of men and one-third of women will experience it at some point. Male pattern baldness accounts for 95% of cases, while more than half of women experience hair thinning after menopause.

There is scientific evidence that microneedling helps. A 2021 review found that it could be more effective at promoting growth than minoxidil alone, with the best results coming when both are used together. 

That said, evidence is promising, especially when paired with treatments like minoxidil, but on its own, the results can be underwhelming. 

How to use it on hair:

• Keep hair short so the roller makes direct contact with the scalp.

• Wash and completely dry your scalp before rolling

• Sanitise the roller with alcohol before every use.

• Divide the scalp into sections and roll gently at a 45-degree angle, changing directions (vertical, horizontal, diagonal).

• Avoid wounds or inflamed skin.

• Wait 24 hours before applying treatments like minoxidil.

• Clean and air-dry your roller after every session.

Pros

• Affordable and easy to use at home

• Boosts absorption of skincare and haircare products

• Can improve skin texture and fade scars

• May increase hair density and thickness

• Non-invasive compared to professional treatments

Cons

• Results are slow and vary from person to person.

• Risk of irritation, scarring, or infection if misused

• Hard to roll evenly on the scalp without assistance

• Needs consistent upkeep and hygiene

Rolling hundreds of needles across your face or scalp isn’t exactly relaxing, but it’s not unbearable. The sensation is mildly uncomfortable rather than painful. Of course, tolerance depends on the needle size and your pain threshold.

Derma rolling is minimally invasive, but misuse can lead to problems. Using too much pressure or the wrong needle size may cause permanent scarring or hyperpigmentation. There’s also the risk of spreading bacteria if the tool isn’t properly cleaned.

People with eczema, psoriasis, keloids, or a history of blood clots should avoid derma rolling. Those with active acne, warts, or infections should consult a dermatologist before trying it. If you’re using retinol or taking Accutane, stop at least five days before rolling to prevent irritation. Avoid rolling over sunburned or inflamed skin.

Stick to needle size 0.5 mm for safe at-home use. Longer needles (1.0–1.5 mm) should only be handled by professionals, as they penetrate deeper and carry a higher risk of complications. Always replace your roller every few months and never share it with anyone else.

Derma rollers can be a useful tool for smoother skin and healthier hair, but only if used correctly, consistently, and with realistic expectations. They’re not a miracle cure, and results take time.

If you love beauty rituals and don’t mind the upkeep, a derma roller could be your new MVP. If you want fast, dramatic results? Save your money for professional microneedling.