MIAMI — The American dream often unfolds in unexpected ways. A young man from Vale da Amoreira crosses the Atlantic, labeled a pioneer, and transforms into one of the biggest names to grace the hallowed courts of the NBA. Yet, fame, fortune, and daily interactions with basketball's global elite don't erase one's roots. When Neemias Queta's 7-foot frame yearns for a comfort that no South Beach fast-food chain or luxury restaurant can provide, there's only one destination: the Old Lisbon restaurant in Miami.
It's at this embassy of Portuguese gastronomy, celebrating a historic 35 years in November, that the Portuguese center finds his preferred haven. A bastion established as one of Florida's oldest Portuguese restaurants, where the giant's order, whenever his Celtics play in Miami, never changes: bacalhau com natas (cod with cream).
Commanding the kitchen operations with an iron fist and a heart of gold is Executive Chef Carlos Abreu. His own journey to Miami could fill an adventure novel.
"I was in the Portuguese Navy, and about 15 years ago, I retired. I thought: at 45, what am I going to do with my life? Meanwhile, I used to vacation in Miami a lot, and once, I passed by here and saw a Portuguese restaurant, and I decided. I contacted the owner, and after seven months, I had a visa to work here at Old Lisbon," he recalls.
His headquarters shifted from the Navy General Staff to the Florida stoves, but the discipline remained intact: "I gained experience working completely differently in the Navy, different from what's needed in restaurants, but I adapted well; I've always adapted well."
On the menu, the flavors of Portugal are a religion. "It's octopus, it's cod, we have codfish cakes, we have chorizo; we try to bring everything from Portugal, olive oil, we try to bring all the products. We travel to Portugal every year to do the shopping, and we have our own importers who bring Portuguese products. We insist on that," Carlos Abreu states confidently.
This dedication attracts the Portuguese community, but it's the American public that's captivated by the traditional method. "They love the food because there's a concept in the United States that things are very pre-prepared. So, we have this concept of preparing everything from scratch. We always take the trouble to peel the onion, peel the garlic, peel the potato. And Americans love our type of cuisine. We like to introduce cod, but surprisingly, they love eating sardines, for example. Sometimes I see some Americans here taking a slice of bread and putting the sardine on it, and I say: 'yes, you've been to Portugal already.' Many Americans who went on vacation to Portugal then come here, wanting to savor our flavors again," he continues.
The spot is a mandatory stop for prominent figures visiting the city, and the national sport always comes knocking. One of them is one of our greatest ambassadors in the USA... "Famous Portuguese sports figures coming here? Well, we have Neemias, who comes here when he plays in Miami. Tisha Penicheiro also comes. What does Neemias usually order? He likes bacalhau com natas. He really likes bacalhau com natas," the Chef confesses with a huge smile.
Now, with the National Football Team settled nearby in Palm Beach, Carlos Abreu's pride swells. "For us Portuguese, it's a great source of pride to have the Portuguese National Team here. Like last year, for example, Benfica was very close by. Obviously, we'd love to host some players with their families, because we have two other restaurants. It would be very gratifying for us, because after people have been here for three, four, five days, it's always nice to come and eat Portuguese food, and of course, everyone is invited."
World Cup fever is already stirring the streets, fueled by the highly anticipated Portugal-Colombia match set for Miami on the 27th, which concludes the group stage. At Old Lisbon, the atmosphere promises to be electric.
"Right now, it's the most anticipated game since the draw came out. It was instant madness, especially because there are many Colombians in Miami. It was the biggest craze to know that we were going to play Colombia. Because, ultimately, it's going to be a huge rivalry. In fact, it was the most sought-after, best-selling game," he recalls.
"Everyone tells us Portugal is the best team in the World Cup"
As for the chances of the Portuguese squad lifting the trophy at the end of the tournament, the kitchen's helmsman doesn't hide his ambition, buoyed by the favoritism that foreigners in Florida attribute to them.
"We'll take it step by step. I have hope. Of all the people living in Miami that I deal with, and there are many nationalities, everyone says we have the best team. In essence, we almost have an obligation to win the World Cup because everyone, Venezuelans, Cubans, Americans, are saying we have the best team in the World Cup. We have that obligation." The cards are on the table, the cod is in the oven, and the Chef's faith is unwavering: "Portugal will win!"
In conclusion, and returning to the NBA's Portuguese star, Neemias Queta found more than just a restaurant in Miami; he found a sanctuary that nourishes both body and mind. With the National Team already in Florida, the path is clearly laid out.
Cristiano Ronaldo and company are already settled in Palm Beach, but if they want to understand how to survive the American mystique without losing their way, they just need to ask the basketball giant. The road to glory is also paved with the taste of home.