Fashion buyer, consultant and insider Giovanni Franciosi recounts what designers offered towards the new season at the Milan Fashion Week 2016
Giving a first hand account of the recently held Milan Fashion Week, fashion consultant and photographer Giovanni Franciosi recounts what designers offered towards the new season.
Franciosi writes in exclusively for Pulse delving into presentation details, getting 'into the heads' of the luxury designers and breaks down the trends presented on the runway as well as the influences made by their muses/models;
"Milan Fashion Week for Spring-Summer 2017 has just closed with hints of changes and creativity. It’s been a reinvention of trends, but always focused on pragmatism and stability, the same old commercial way of Milan.
Big houses are evolving their myth, with new designers and contemporary approach.
Take Gucci, for instance. Since the young Alessandro Michele took the helm, there’s been an utter change of style, like vintage very well edited, and a strong call for animals feature and signs. This collection is a lysergic glamour, with a Gothic and noir allure. Graphic designs made by the artist Jayde Fish, well known on Instagram. Oriental brocades and punk prints, with a lot of signs like Hollywood, cemetery or future. It’s a valley of the dolls, made out of passion, strength, colors and desire.
Miuccia Prada is always open to contradiction, finding a contemporary way for a wrong, elegant style. It’s a trick, in which she links the ugly to the beautiful. Look at the outfit of upcoming local supermodel Mayowa Nicholas: a boyfriend V-neck checked sweater on a silk printed shirt, a yellow skirt with long burst and feathers, a vintage necklace with a big buckle.
That is the perfect new ugly chic, technical fabrics along precious embroideries, jerseys along tweeds and the return of nylon bags. An old elegance.
Awesome opulence at Fendi. Where Karl Lagerfeld mixed hyperdecor with easy accessories like the strap you bags. Jogging pants and shirt dresses, big skirts with small tops. Flowers in 3D from Imperial-era inspiration and brocades. Lines all over. A collection that perfectly celebrates Fendi 90th anniversary.
Jersey is the password at Pucci. Where the young designer Massimo Giorgetti is attracting new, cool customers giving creative energy to the historical brand from Florence. He’s experimenting the jersey, with cascades in lime yellow, red and tourquoise. Tribal graphism in black and white and the prints from the archive of Emilio Pucci.
Reality is not what it seems, in Moschino crazy world. the catwalk of Jeremy Scott is a play of paper dolls, in which every look is made in a trompe l’oeil effect, you can’t say if it’s fiction or reality. Silhouette printed in lingerie, chains, polka dots, corsets. Biker and denim. Fake hands out from a trench and evening dresses with printed strass and giant bows. Was it a tricky dream? For sure commercial. And the drug bags, inspired by American flacon pills, will be big hit.
Gigi Hadid was the star at Versace. we’re not underestimating the comeback of Naomi Campbell of course. But it’s Instagram queen Gigi the icon today. And the perfect testimonial for Donatella Versace luxury sportswear. A super active collection, Olympics inspired, very high-tech, from green to red to blue. “Sportswear is the future, should be comfortable and glamoured” said Donatella at the end of the show. Tennis champion Serena Williams was in front row.
Marco De Vincenzo is Milan new rising star. He’s a talent out of time and definitions, in constant evolution, contemporary yet classic. Young and mature at the same time. He showed a collection build on crossing chromatism, one brilliant and one nocturned, like an up and down traveling. It’s geometric in coats and dresses as well as decorated in silk, patchworks and jacquards.
Twins Dean and Dan Caten brought the usual 'joyness' and party mood on the dancefloor. DSquared2 is downtown meets uptown in the 80s. Superglamour for the disco, with animalier minidresses, low waist broken denim, sparkling palettes all over. And deluxe accessories as eyes and lips-shaped pins or disco-bags.
A double celebration at Bottega Veneta. 50th anniversary of the historical Italian brand and 15th of Tomas Maier as creative director. In the prestigious venue of Accademia di Brera, Maier showed men and women together. Natural choice for a subtling luxury brand, made of perfect manufacturing and artisan skills".
Photo Credit: Giovanni Franciosi